
Tallinn Overview
Estonia’s capital city is only 53 miles across the Gulf of Finland from Helsinki but for nearly 50 years, as part of the Soviet Union, was ideologically a world away. That ended in 1991 when Estonia declared its independence from the Soviet Union.
Today, thanks to its strategic position on the Gulf, Estonia and its capital city of Tallinn are thriving. Capitalism was quick to catch on here, and Tallinn, population 400,000, is not only a major port but also a major industrial center. Modern Tallinn is Scandinavian sleek mixed with Soviet era concrete.
But the attraction for cruise passengers is the remarkably restored, medieval Old Town, which despite a plethora of shops catering to locals and tourists, still feels a part of the 1400’s because of the cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. Walk the winding streets on cobblestones, past medieval towers and the old city wall, and you’ll feel like you’re taking a step back into a medieval storybook, with striking towers and historic brick buildings.
Tallinn is artsy in a very much post-Soviet way, and a delightful place to hang out and people-watch from one of the sidewalk cafes. The folks here are restrained no more and amidst the fairy tale surroundings there is an “anything goes” ambience. And the shops, especially the galleries and antiques venues, serve up some interesting finds such as elaborate weavings from cloth artists and modern art from local painters; antique shops feature community memorabilia (Lenin paperweight, anyone?).
Copenhagen Overview
Sitting on the east coast of Denmark, Copenhagen has been that country’s capital for 600 years and is the largest city in Scandinavia with a population of 1.7 million people. It’s home to the world’s oldest monarchy (King Erik VII set up permanent residence in 1417) and its present Queen, Margrethe II, currently lives at Amalienborg Palace.
In a country rich in Viking history, grand castles and lush green countryside, Copenhagen is a charming city of 17th- and 18th-century buildings, beautiful parks and gardens, pretty promenades along canals, and ancient winding streets made for walking and biking. During the longer days and warmer weather of summer, outdoor cafe-sitting and outings to the magical Tivoli Gardens are highlights.
Copenhagen recently marked the 200th anniversary of the birth of Hans Christian Andersen, the legendary and magical writer of such fairy tales as “The Little Mermaid” and “The Princess and The Pea”.
At any time, getting your bearings in old Copenhagen is easy; it’s a warren of pedestrian streets, bounded by Norreport Station, Town Hall Square and the Central Train Station. Stroget, which is an amalgamation of five streets — Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and Ostergade — runs practically smack-dab through the center of the city between Rauspladsen and Kongens Nytorvl. Pistolstraede is chock-a-block with galleries, restaurants and boutiques; Fiolstraed is for antiques galore; and Nyhavn is where some of the most expensive restaurants are located.
Note: The “Cruise Lounge” is located midway along Stroget at Amagertorv Square. Be sure to have proof that you’re a cruise passenger for complimentary coffee or tea and a chance to rest a bit. If you make some purchases at, say, Georg Jensen or Royal Copenhagen, you can leave them at the lounge and pick them up later.
It’s an expensive city, and yet a visit here is worth the splurge. And please note: all prices we list here are approximate and are subject to change.
Here’s a hint: You might want to consider getting the Copenhagen Card, which offers unlimited free access by bus and rail throughout the metropolitan area for one or three days as well as complimentary admission to well over 60 sights and museums. Up to two children under the age of 10 are allowed free with each adult card. For more information, visit the Copenhagen Tourist Information Center at www.woco.dk.
Helsinki Overview
What really struck us on our first visit, and even more strongly on subsequent trips, is that Helsinki is a city with a strange melange of identities. Maybe it’s the Russian influence (St. Petersburg is less than a seven-hour drive from Helsinki). Maybe it’s the strong appreciation of contemporary design — the city is home to Marimekko, world-renowned for its boldly patterned textiles; Kalevala, known for distinctive bronze and silver jewelry; and Iittala, known for glassware. Or it could be the dark, cold and snowy winters that last half the year (fortunately, this is not the season for cruising), making folks here just a little bit wacky. This is, after all, the place where one annual festival features the tossing of Finnish-made Nokia cell phones and another popular mainstay is a wife-carrying competition.
Finland is cut off from Nordic neighbors like Sweden and Norway because of its near-inexplicable language (indeed, Finnish is based on Hungarian, and as it originated as an oral language rather than a written one it’s very difficult to follow). The country itself, which was juggled back and forth over the centuries between Sweden and Russia, is also one of Europe’s newest; independence from Russia was achieved in 1917 following the Bolshevik Revolution.
The historic Helsinki (it was founded in 1550 by Swedish King Gustavus Vasa) offers monuments such as the Lutheran Cathedral (Lutheran is the “state” religion), the onion-domed Uspenski Cathedral (it’s Orthodox) and the neo-classical buildings in and around Senate Square. The sleek Helsinki can be found at Kiasma, the avant-garde Museum of Contemporary Art, and at the Design Museum. You can really feel the different identities on a trip around Helsinki. Helsinki’s other major plus is that it’s bounded on three sides by the Baltic Sea. In summer Helsinki’s waterfront is the liveliest place in Finland — whether you’re soaking up the sun at a cafe, riding the ferry to the island housing the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress, or taking a boat tour of surrounding waterways.
St. Petersburg Overview
There’s something eerie about coming to St. Petersburg. Probably Cold War remembrances (this was after all once an Evil Empire), and all sorts of warnings from ship personnel about pickpockets and blackmarketeers — and the fact that you have to go past stern-faced, uniformed customs officials at the pier doesn’t help. Although it did crack us up on a recent visit when a shore-side band broke into “New York, New York” by way of greeting…
Once in the city, you may find St. Petersburg a wonderful place … or you may find your experience here one big hassle. The key museums and attractions are not air conditioned and rarely have special facilities for the disabled. There are few signs in English and understanding what you are seeing — whether it’s a street sign, a shop name or a painting description — can be impossible. And the Hermitage is typically packed to the gills — you may have to do a lot of jostling to see the art highlights.
And yet the beautiful city Peter the Great founded in 1703 in what was then swampland, has today unbelievably sumptuous Tsarist-era palaces (efforts have been underway for years to fix the crumbling ones), onion-domed churches and the lovely Neva River (where twilight cruises are offered). Peter was inspired by London, Paris and Vienna and carefully developed the city by plan, creating canals and passageways. Most of the design remains today.
The fact that cruise ships typically spend at least one overnight here allows you also to explore the countryside as well, where past the bland Soviet-style apartment buildings of the suburbs are opulent country palaces — impressive memorials to the best Tsarist money could buy.
St. Petersburg was capital of Imperial Russia from 1712 to 1914 and remains Russia’s cultural capital — all the big names have been affiliated with St. Petersburg including Pushkin, Dostoyevsky, Tchaikovsky and Tolstoy. The city itself is like a living museum — you are likely to find yourself ooing and ahhing at the architecture from your cab or bus — and art is a key attraction. You’ve been to the Louve in Paris. Now you have to see the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. And don’t miss a chance to see Russian ballet performed live.
Stockholm Overview
Stockholm was founded in the 13th century and is strikingly pretty — arguably one of the most beautiful capital cities in the world. Take one look and you’ll understand why it’s sometimes called “Venice of the North.”
The city is made up of 14 islands connected by some 50 bridges on Lake Malaren, which flows into the Baltic Sea and passes an archipelago with some 24,000 islands and islets (and a lot of summer homes and cottages).
The city’s a very lively, cosmopolitan place with both modern Scandinavian architecture including lots of brass and steel, along with fairy tale towers, a captivating Old Town (Gamla Stan) and lots of green space (an impressive one -third of the city’s total land area is parks). Nature is close at hand — you can even fish from some downtown waterways.
Sweden is one of the richest countries in the world and its culture is rich as well with fine museums and historical attractions, not to mention an excellent restaurant scene. Such greats as Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman and Ingmar Bergman got their start at the Royal Theater. And at City Hall, Nobel prizes are awarded each December (all except the Peace prize, which is given out in Oslo); the prizes are named for inventor Alfred Nobel who was born here.
The government is ruled by a constitutional monarchy (there is a popular Royal Family), it is highly socialized and the taxes here are among the highest anywhere (if you meet up with locals they are likely to complain).
This is the largest of the Baltic ports with a population of more than 1.65 million.
Warnemunde Overview
The fine old Hanseatic red-brick town of Rostock and its neighbouring seaside resort, Warnemunde, are best known as the jumping-off points for Berlin, which is two to three hours away by train. At least half of all cruise passengers head straight for the German capital. But if you’ve been there before, or if you live in Europe and Berlin is an easy weekend break for you, take time instead to explore these fascinating places, with their traditional architecture and long-standing maritime traditions.
Warnemunde — the mouth of the river Warnow — gets most of the attention, despite being a tiny suburb of Rostock with a population of just 15,000 against Rostock’s 200,000. Still an operational fishing port, it’s also an attractive, if windswept, seaside resort with vast dunes and sweeping stretches of sand on either side of the river’s mouth. You’ll see rows of ancient, timber-framed houses, sleepy squares, modern hotels with spas, and boats galore. Ice cream stalls and hundreds of screeching seagulls complete the seaside feel.
Summer is regatta season, and — in addition to the constant buzz of ferries coming from and going to Denmark, Finland and Sweden — hundreds of sailing boats may be on the water at any one time. The season peaks with Warnemunde Week each July (4-12 in 2009), when 2,000 boats gather for seven days of races and nighttime parties.
Medieval Rostock appears smaller than it really is, thanks to miles of undulating countryside and forest around the town. The city’s merchants made a fast buck on beer and fish exports in the 12th century and — to facilitate trade and protect their powerful fleet — were instrumental in the formation of the Hanseatic League, a famous union of rich trading towns in northern Germany. The city later became famous for aircraft manufacture; the Heinkel factory was located at Warnemunde and produced airplanes for the Luftwaffe in the 1930s.
Although some of the city’s magnificent, old buildings were destroyed in World War II, you can still see grand marketplaces, bridges, city ramparts and gates. Even the newer buildings were designed in the traditional style of red brick and stepped gables. The skyline is dominated by three massive churches, including St Peter’s, which used to be one of the tallest buildings in the world.
Rostock has the distinction of being northern Germany’s oldest university town and also has a top school for performing arts. Like many places in Germany, the city still brews excellent beer, but its income today is mainly from cruise ship tourism and, to an extent, the manufacturing of ship parts.
Rostock has a long-standing association with tall ships, and aficionados could time a cruise to coincide with the annual Hanse Sail Rostock (August 6-9, 2009), during which hundreds of square riggers and other classic sailing boats gather to enjoy four days of regattas, fireworks and markets, set up for the duration of the festivities.